Choosing the right Belay Device/Carabiner setup

When it comes to belay devices and carabiners, climbers have more options now than ever before. Luckily, we here at The Crag are going to help you get through the process of choosing the right Carabiner/Belay Device setup with this easy guide, perfect for the approaching holidays. Read below to get started!



Petzl AM’D with Black Diamond ATC Sport & Black Diamond ScrewLock with Black Diamond ATC

Our first set ups are the Petzl AM’D with Black Diamond’s ATC Sport and the Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate paired with the Black Diamond ATC. Both are a great combo for climbers looking at a simple jack-of-all-trades belaying set up for climbing in the gym or outside. The AM’D and RockLock Screwgate carabiners are made to be smooth screw lock systems that have plenty of width, making them easy to open and close, plus plenty of room for the movement of your belay device.

The ATC Sport and ATC belay devices are fairly similar, with a couple of different features. The ATC has the ability to not only belay, but also rappel for all your climbing needs outdoors, while the ATC sport is typically used for gym use belaying and top rope climbing outdoors.



Petzl William Tri-Act Locking Carabiner with Petzl Verso & Black Diamond Magnetron with Petzl Reverso 4


For the climber looking at a carabiner/belay device combo for adventuring into outdoor climbing, you’re going to want to be equipped with one of these. Both of the carabiners are auto-locking, so no need to fuss with remembering to screw lock before a belay or rappel with these two. The Magnetron is definitely the standout carabiner in this bunch. With two magnetic arms in the gate and a steel insert in the carabiner’s keylock nose to create an ultra-secure, self-clearing and redundant locking mechanism, the Magnetron can’t be matched. On top of these features, it also has the feature of being locked into the belay loop to eliminate any cross-loading.

The Verso and Reverso 4 belay devices by Petzl are both some of the smoothest belay devices on the market. While having many similarities, you’ll find that the Reverso 4 has a couple of more advanced options than the Verso. The primary difference is the Reverso 4 allows you to belay from above your climber, definitely a necessity in your multi pitch or big wall adventures, or any route where belaying from above makes more sense. If all you need is a smooth, functioning belay device that is perfect for belaying on all sizes of ropes for your sport climbing adventures, the Verso is an excellent choice. For a more versatile belay device that can handle any belay situation, the Reverso 4 can’t be beat.

Picking the right carabiner/belay device setup for your climb is necessary for your safety. Use this guide to feel confident about your choice in the setups and always feel free to ask our staff. Happy climbing!


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