Our friend and Bighorn Society coach Chris Roos is on his way up to Shawangunk Ridge, better known as the Gunks, this weekend for a few days of climbing. The Gunks are the land of 5 star routes under 5.10. With 9000 linear feet of cliff line it offers incredible variety from delicate slabs to wildly overhung 5.6 routes. The Gunks has a long history with climbing going back to the 40s, and was developed around the same time as Yosemite with the same bold ethics that prove strong today. Chris climbed there in college and led his first multi-pitch climb there (Madame Grunnebaum’s Wulst, 5.6). We asked him to stop by The Crag on his way out of town to let us get a look in his pack.
Black Diamond Camalot – I carry a double set from .5 – 4. Great weight to size benefits.
Metolius Master Cams and Wild Country Zeros for the small cams. They’re solid and were the right price when I needed new gear.
Metolius FS Mini Wiregate carabiners and Black Diamond Neutrinos – My racking carabiners. Color coding makes it easier to pull the right piece, and the small size and low weight don’t weigh me down.
Black Diamond Stoppers (plus some bail booty) – Racked on Petzl Spirit ‘biners. No hook on the nose, so no fumbling when placing.
CAMP USA Tricams – Tricams can be used as either a cam or a stopper and are great for placing in horizontal cracks and pockets. They’re ever important in the East Coast trad areas like The Gunks, Looking Glass, and Seneca Rocks.
Petzl Reverso 4 – Lightweight and ready for top anchor belaying.
PMI 60 meter rope – 60 meters will allow you to climb full pitches on the east coast, and in many places link 2 pitches together.
“Oh S#!t” ‘Biner – Whistle, knife, emergency ascender, and Prussic cord. Gotta be able to save yourself before you can help others.
Misty Mountain Cadillac harness – You have to ride in style when wearing your harness for 10 hours. Great padding and 6 gear loops is a bonus, too!
Metolius Inferno Quickdraws – Love these quickdraws. Wide opening gate and light weight.
Five Ten MoccAsyms – Great all day shoe. Comfortably sized thin for crack climbing, but sensitive enough for delicate face climbing. And easy to slip on and off at a hanging belay.
Petzl Elios Helmet – I carry way to many things that can be dropped, gotta have some protection.
Black Diamond Headlamp – It’s Fall: Milk the day for all its worth! If you’re not hiking out in the dark you didn’t try hard enough.
Guide book – Buy them, enjoy them, drool over them, share them…they will serve you well.
“Martha REI” – My thermos. Again, it’s Fall, and there’s no better way to shake off the chill of the morning or recharge in the afternoon than some fresh hot coffee at the crag, It’s also big enough to share and make friends.
Metolius Crag Station – One bag to hold it all. Built like a haul bag, but has a full length zipper to get to the goodies inside.